By the Arcade Home UK — The UK's Independent Arcade Machine Buyer's Guide Team · Updated May 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

How to Build a DIY Arcade Cabinet UK: Beginner to Advanced Guide

Building your own arcade cabinet is entirely achievable, even if you've never picked up a drill before. You'll end up with something genuinely impressive in your games room—and you'll have spent roughly half what a pre-built cabinet costs. The trade-off is time and a learning curve, but the result is a piece of furniture that plays exactly how you want it to.

Why Build Your Own Cabinet?

Pre-built arcade machines from major manufacturers run between £2,000 and £8,000 in the UK, often with limited game selection and proprietary parts that are expensive to replace. A DIY build—with decent MDF, proper controls, and a full Raspberry Pi setup—typically costs £600 to £1,200 depending on your ambitions around the cabinet design and control quality.

You also gain complete control. You choose the exact dimensions, the joystick and button quality, the games library, and the artwork. If something breaks, you can fix it yourself rather than waiting for a repair technician.

The catch: you'll need to invest a weekend or two, and you'll need access to basic tools. A table saw or circular saw is essential; a belt sander is very useful; a drill and jigsaw are mandatory.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Tools (essential):

• Table saw or circular saw with guide rail
• Drill-driver
• Jigsaw
• Tape measure and pencil
• Clamps (at least four)
• Screwdriver bits and drill bits
• Sandpaper (80, 120, 220 grit)
• Wood filler and caulk

Materials:

• 18mm MDF sheets (typically two to three sheets depending on cabinet size)
• Wood screws (32mm and 50mm)
• Monitor (typically 24–27 inch arcade-style or standard LCD)
• Joystick and buttons (arcade-quality push buttons, usually eight buttons plus joystick per player)
• USB encoder board (connects controls to computer)
• Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB minimum) or Pi 5
• Power supply for Pi and monitor
• Wiring and connectors
• Cabinet artwork (printed vinyl or paper)
• Wood stain or paint (optional)

The Build Process: Step by Step

Planning and Cutting

Start with a cutting plan. Standard cabinet dimensions are around 1.6m tall, 0.7m wide, and 0.6m deep, but you can scale up or down. Free cabinet plans are available online—measure everything twice before cutting, because MDF mistakes are difficult to correct.

Use a guide rail on your circular saw to keep cuts straight. MDF splinters badly without proper support, so clamp a piece of scrap underneath. Cut your cabinet sides, top, bottom, control panel, and monitor bezel supports first. All other pieces flow from these main components.

Assembly

Pocket-hole joinery (using a Kreg jig) is ideal here, though butt joints with quality wood screws work fine for a first build. MDF doesn't hold screws well if you thread them repeatedly, so use heavy-duty inserters for areas that might need adjustment. Assemble the main cabinet box first, then attach the control panel frame and monitor supports. Leave the back open for wiring access.

Control Panel Wiring

This is where most people hesitate, but it's straightforward. Each button and the joystick connect to a USB encoder board (a small circuit board that translates button presses into keyboard or gamepad inputs). You'll need to drill holes in the control panel for each button—a 30mm hole saw is standard. Mount the joystick and buttons, then solder their wires to the encoder. If you've never soldered, practise on scrap wire first, but the connections are simple: positive to one terminal, ground to another.

The USB encoder connects to your Raspberry Pi via USB. No soldering required there.

Raspberry Pi Setup

Flash a Raspberry Pi OS or dedicated arcade system (RetroPie, Batocera, or Lakka are popular) onto an SD card. Connect your controls via the USB encoder, test them in the emulator software, and calibrate if needed. This is the easiest part technically—the software does the heavy lifting. Your Pi will drive the monitor via HDMI and connect to your joystick and buttons via USB.

Monitor and Power

Mount the monitor behind or inside the bezel opening, securing it firmly. Route the HDMI and power cables into the cabinet. Use a power distribution block to run everything from a single outlet, or fit an IEC power socket and internal power supply for a more professional finish. Test everything before closing up the back.

Artwork and Finishing

Print or order your cabinet artwork (vector files work best—search online for templates). Wrap it around the cabinet exterior using spray adhesive and a squeegee. Sand and paint or stain the wood if you prefer a natural look. A gloss finish over artwork protects it well.

Common Challenges and Solutions

MDF is heavier than you think. A finished cabinet easily weighs 80–120kg. Build it in place if possible, or have help moving it.

Arcade controls need quality parts. Cheap joysticks feel mushy; spend a bit more on Sanwa or equivalent. You'll notice the difference immediately.

Cabinet artwork can look cheap if poorly printed. Use proper vinyl wrap printing, not home inkjet. The cost difference is minimal and the result is vastly better.

Wiring becomes a mess. Label every wire with tape before you disconnect anything. You'll thank yourself later.

Realistic Timescale

Budget two to three weekends for a first build: one for cutting and assembly, one for wiring and Pi setup, one for finishing and calibration. If you're experienced with woodwork, you'll move faster. If you're learning as you go, take your time—rushing leads to mistakes.

Next Steps

Once you've got the basics down, you can upgrade: add a second joystick for versus play, install a better speaker system, or use a more powerful PC instead of a Pi. Your cabinet will be genuinely upgradeable because you built it yourself.

The real reward isn't just the finished machine—it's knowing exactly how it works and being able to repair or modify it yourself.